Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Indian Creek - Sending and Gear Popping

I have to choose wisely which trips I go on because of my monetary situation. It's rare that the Alpine Club doesn't have an organized group to go to some epic location every single weekend. Because I am saving up to go to Zion for spring break (get excited), this was one of the trips that I would have to opt out of. My friend Steve offered to give me a ride both ways for only $20, I couldn't refuse. 
The second I got out of class friday, I quickly packed my bags and started the 7-8 hour trek out to Indian Creek just outside of Moab, Utah. 


Making my way up 9 Lives (5.11+) at the Cat wall after inadequately warming up, getting the onsight.


Photo by Natasha Bowman


Jess giving 9 Lives a run for its money. I sported her extra small patagonia jacket and designer sunglasses while I belayed. 



Photo by Natasha Bowman

Sending food. Super food. 5 eggs. Whatever you want to call it. 



Bummed I didn't send King Cat (5.11+) because of the lactic acid build up in my forearms and the 4 foot roof that kept spitting me out, the red white and blue was still there for me. I think I've unlocked the beta for the route and can get it clean next time. 

The same exact cut on the back of my hand from crack climbing keeps opening up over and over again. Unless I give it two weeks to heal (highly unlikely) is it going to just keep doing this?? I put neosporin on it almost daily to prevent infection and try to make it heal faster. Any tips? 

This was earlier in the week...

Changing subjects.... I am in serious need of some new, looser fitting climbing shoes. I try to make the best of my tightly fitting La Sportiva TC Pro's. I messed up big time and got one of the most expensive shoes on the market too small, oops. Because of their small size, it causes my toes to be more than just a little bit curled. It is really painful when crack climbing... and all of the time now that I think about it. I've figured out a way to turn off the pain and keep climbing.
I don't know.. maybe I'll get lucky and get a new pair of better fitting shoes for my 20th birthday instead of a birthday cake.


While I sat in my intro to geology class (appropriately learning about the formation of sedimentary rock)  my friend Kurt learned something far more valuable than my lifeless monotone teacher could ever mumble. It had rained the day before, and apparently that rock hadn't had enough time to dry out. Though it seemed that the 60 degree perfect weather had evaporated the residual moisture... the small fall onto well placed gear proved this to be wrong. 
Kurt posted this video up on mountainproject.com, and people immediately blamed the gear failure to be human error, and suggested that he is to get proper instruction how to place gear. Not only does this kid climb harder than most of the people I know, but I'm not totally positive that the people who hawk the internet forums actually climb. I am suspecting that their eyes stayed glued to their computer screens and never actually get out..

2 comments:

  1. HAHAHA I love this post. So true about the mp.com. Where's my photo cred? ;)

    Phil

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  2. Nice work on King Cat. I love that climb- tried to do it the last two times I went to the creek. Still working for the redpoint

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