Thursday, March 24, 2011

Art Is Hard

For those of you that put up with my writing, and consistently read my blog, I've been trying to post but for some reason the 'publish' button isn't working...
Well I wish that was the case, but I'm actually just having a very difficult time translating my thoughts  into real words.
I've had 10 drafts, and only 2 actual posts in the last two months, I apologize. I guess you might call that writers block?

Stay tuned... It's coming

Tom Evans photo, this is art. Zodiac (C3+)

My friend Scott Bennett soloing The Zodiac on the glorious 'nipple pitch', on El Capitan from his blog The Big Wide West.

I can't get this picture out of my head. It's one of the things that is keeping me motivated and SUPER psyched to keep training and getting in gear for my trip to Yosemite in May. Read up on his latest adventures in South America. Holy shit, makes me insanely excited.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Things are looking up.

A series of events have recently occurred that i can't help but be excited about. Things are looking up.

In the past week I've been successful sending a few trad routes, some of which I have tried multiple times and others my first attempt. I seem to be climbing better than ever. I finally feel like I'm pulling out of the mental funk that I have stuck in for a while.
I'm sending again, finally.

9 Lives (5.11+) Indian Creek, UT - onsight
Johnny Cat (5.11+) Indian Creek, UT - onsight
Country Club Crack (5.11c) Boulder Canyon - red point
Athletes Feet (5.11) Boulder Canyon - red point
The Gill Crack (5.12a) Boulder Canyon - red point
    My first 5.12 trad send. Even though it's short, it's super hard and painful. (The Beta)

I also just got a brand new apple macbook pro for free (no.. this is not spam). My old computer crashed and somehow apple messed up and didn't fix it, so they just gave me a new one. Happy birthday me!!!

I'm getting ready to head out to Zion in less than a week with my friend Greg. It will be fun to climb with him on his first wall, and climb enormous sandstone! It looks like we are going to be climbing Moonlight Buttress, Touchstone, and Spaceshot, all in 4 days. Psyched!!!

I turn 20 tomorrow. I feel happy where I'm heading in life.

18: In a very unhealthy relationship with a girlfriend, climbed a decent amount, graduated high school and started college
19: Climbed 7 big walls, starting to figure life, spent over 3 months out of the year collectively on climbing trips
20: I don't know what's going to happen yet.. a few plans are starting to formulate. I'm dropping out of CU to become a firefighter, and possibly eventually get into mountain rescue. I'm also looking into becoming a climbing guide. I'm going to try to make this year better than the last.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Indian Creek - Sending and Gear Popping

I have to choose wisely which trips I go on because of my monetary situation. It's rare that the Alpine Club doesn't have an organized group to go to some epic location every single weekend. Because I am saving up to go to Zion for spring break (get excited), this was one of the trips that I would have to opt out of. My friend Steve offered to give me a ride both ways for only $20, I couldn't refuse. 
The second I got out of class friday, I quickly packed my bags and started the 7-8 hour trek out to Indian Creek just outside of Moab, Utah. 

Making my way up 9 Lives (5.11+) at the Cat wall after inadequately warming up, getting the onsight.

Photo by Natasha Bowman

Jess giving 9 Lives a run for its money. I sported her extra small patagonia jacket and designer sunglasses while I belayed. 

Photo by Natasha Bowman

Sending food. Super food. 5 eggs. Whatever you want to call it. 

Bummed I didn't send King Cat (5.11+) because of the lactic acid build up in my forearms and the 4 foot roof that kept spitting me out, the red white and blue was still there for me. I think I've unlocked the beta for the route and can get it clean next time. 

The same exact cut on the back of my hand from crack climbing keeps opening up over and over again. Unless I give it two weeks to heal (highly unlikely) is it going to just keep doing this?? I put neosporin on it almost daily to prevent infection and try to make it heal faster. Any tips? 

This was earlier in the week...

Changing subjects.... I am in serious need of some new, looser fitting climbing shoes. I try to make the best of my tightly fitting La Sportiva TC Pro's. I messed up big time and got one of the most expensive shoes on the market too small, oops. Because of their small size, it causes my toes to be more than just a little bit curled. It is really painful when crack climbing... and all of the time now that I think about it. I've figured out a way to turn off the pain and keep climbing.
I don't know.. maybe I'll get lucky and get a new pair of better fitting shoes for my 20th birthday instead of a birthday cake.

While I sat in my intro to geology class (appropriately learning about the formation of sedimentary rock)  my friend Kurt learned something far more valuable than my lifeless monotone teacher could ever mumble. It had rained the day before, and apparently that rock hadn't had enough time to dry out. Though it seemed that the 60 degree perfect weather had evaporated the residual moisture... the small fall onto well placed gear proved this to be wrong. 
Kurt posted this video up on, and people immediately blamed the gear failure to be human error, and suggested that he is to get proper instruction how to place gear. Not only does this kid climb harder than most of the people I know, but I'm not totally positive that the people who hawk the internet forums actually climb. I am suspecting that their eyes stayed glued to their computer screens and never actually get out..