Thursday, December 22, 2011

12.25.11


Too much climbing, not enough writing! Finally, I'm able to chill out for a minute and give you all an update. 

I have less than two weeks left in the United States of America! Stress continually began to build pressure against my withering bank account. I wasn't even sure how the hell I was going to pay to go down to Patagonia. A week ago I got a call notifying me that I received the Mountain Fellowship Grant from The American Alpine Club. I hung up the phone and immediately began packing to spend the next 5 days ice climbing in Ouray, CO. 

With additional help from Liberty Mountain, Clif Bar, and other extremely generous prodeals, I'm nearly entirely equipped for my journey down south. 

My head is cluttered with hundreds of questions about logistics. I'm extremely nervous, but I know I need to let things flow. It's hard to let my insecurities drain out.. I'm working on it. 







































Looking up at the glorious Diamond

Kurt Ross and I had an unsuccessful ascent on Alexander's Chimney last month due to the lack of ice on the last pitch. Scott Bennett, one of my climbing partners for Patagonia, was eager to get out and climb some ice with me.
"It's been a month since I was on Alexander's Chimney, there definitely has to be more ice on it now," I said. I have the knowledge easily comparable 10 year old gym climber when it comes to ice and how it forms. It turns out that ice can essentially disappear due to sublimation and wind. At least half the ice on my previous attempt had 'dissappeared'.
A poorly protected 60 meter traverse brought us to Broadway, where we then climbed Keiner's Route to summit Longs Peak. I was damn tired up at 14,000 feet.

Here is an assortment of photos on Long's Peak, Boulder Canyon, Ouray, and Castlewood Canyon.




Cumbre!























Becca Skinner photo


Some new footage is in the making. I'll have a video uploaded before my departure on January 4th. I plan to bring all of my camera and computer gear with me so I'll be able to upload videos while I'm on my trip. My goal is to put out one video every week or so.