Fitz Roy, Round 2

This mission fell into the shadows of the other climbing that we had done during the season, but our attempt on the route was epic. This was the last route we climbed in the big mountains before we took a bus up to Frey in Bariloche, and then to Buenos Aires, where we flew back to the states. 

Scott Bennett and I attempted to repeat the route Mate, Poro y Todo Lo Demas (5.11b 900m) on the North Pillar of Cerro Fitz Roy. The route name translates to: Mate (tea), Weed and Everything Else. "Everything Else" predicted the shenanigans that got thrown our way. 

Without breaking stride, Scott and I successfully picked up a ride from town with the flick of a thumb. A 40 minute ride in the back of a pickup truck on a rough and windy road led to our 6 hour hike to base camp. We bivied below The North Pillar instead of at Piedras Negras to get a head start the next morning. 

I managed to sleep for 2-3 hours, before I poked my head out of the tent to see low visibility due to a thick fog. My lightweight aluminum crampons chomped their way through hard snow as our 30 minute approach turned into 3 hours. As we reached the base of the North Pillar, Scott's swear words followed an unfortunate situation; a broken crampon. 

Our plans of climbing Mate Poro in a single push were diminished to only summiting the North Pillar. Summiting Fitz Roy would require the use of crampons, and would be highly dangerous without them. Our nervousness cut through the thick fog, as we are aware of how dangerous the mountains are in bad weather. 

Not being able to see further than a single pitch below or above us, we decided to bail. We had climbed over 1500 feet of the route in 8 hours, and decided that it was a safe decision to retreat. 

Scott led the rappels, and we got back to the steep snow and ice that stood between us and the safety of our base camp. In order for Scott to descend safely, I chopped steps for him for over 3 hours. We were disappointed that we had failed to summit, but realized that we had an incredible season in the mountains. 

Published

I feel unbelievably lucky that Scott Bennett and I got to write an article for Alpinist. I also somehow managed to get to be on the cover of the magazine.  

It was cool to take a look at what happens in a magazine before it reaches your hands. Being a part of the process was a great learning experience. I was unable to put as much effort into the article as Scott Bennett did because I was getting started with the Yosemite Search and Rescue Team. Just as I began to help finish up the article, a call came out to go look for a kid in the High Sierras. I got flown out in a helicopter that afternoon, and the kid was found the next day.

In Climbing Magazine, Blake Herrington also wrote an article about the gear that Scott and I took on The North Pillar Sit Start.

The Nose, Solo

On June 27th, I became the youngest person to rope solo The Nose on El Capitan in a single day. It took every ounce of willpower and psyche to complete the route. I began limping down the East Ledges descent in my climbing shoes 19 hours after I sunk my first hand jam into the first pitch. 

This is just a quick post, hang in there. The psyche for documenting my experiences is in hiatus. I still love writing, shooting photos, and editing videos, but I just needed a break from it all. 

Here is a pic by Tom Evans of me climbing up the boot flake on The Nose.

It's about 100 degrees here in the valley today. My girlfriend Jess and I are headed up to Tuolumne, where we'll wake up early to brew coffee for all the climbers in the morning. Living here has become routine, and it feels amazing to be in one of the most incredible places in the world.

Peace.

June 22

I am having one of the best times of my life here in Yosemite. I'm surrounded by incredible people along with having a great climbing season. YOSAR and my volunteer position with the climbing rangers has kept me too busy to update my blog, or edit any videos.

I just got off the El Cap yesterday, having climbed The Shortest Straw with Mark Hudon. It was very enjoyable, and it was awesome to climb with someone that is so technically dialed with big wall climbing. I'm getting ready for my big goal for the season, and I'll update more about that later. I have been able to be a part of some rediculoussly badass stuff this year, so.....
Stay tuned, and stay psyched!

5.17.12

I have again been sucked into the center of the climbing Universe for my third season. I was hired into a volunteer program working for the climbing rangers Ben Doyle and Jesse McGahey. It's basically a climbing stewardship program where two friends and I will be working towards being a positive influence on the climbing community. Trail building projects to preserve climbing approaches, route condition patrols (i.e. climbing NIAD to make sure all the anchors are bomber), and other various projects will be worked on.

It seems to be one of the best situations I get to be in as a climber in Yosemite. I got to train with the Yosemite Search And Rescue crew, and I'm now a volunteer SAR climber. Last week a guy fell and dislocated his shoulder and called YOSAR. I got to be on the litter cary out crew, and even got paid! Psyched!

I'm currently staying in a tent cabin until the end of the month in the SAR site next to Camp 4. I have met incredible friends, and finally feel settled in here in the valley. The volunteer program will last until the end of August. It feels good to be a part of something cool in one of most incredible places to climb in the world.

I have felt a bit burnt out on filming and editing since I finished my new Patagonia video, but the inspiration will resurface with time.

Last Season Colin Simon and I warmed up on a route called Lurking Fear on El Capitan in 10 hours 30 minutes. There were minimal amounts of suffering to be had, and it was a good route to get ourselves into shape.

After my one day solo of The Zodiac last spring, I have been inspired by the idea of soloing big wall routes. Though I wasn't in the best shape, I decided to get in gear by soloing Lurking Fear.

Two nice 'wall style' guys from the bay area let me start up just before them on the route, and I made quick progress. I used a new technique where I back looped up the first few bolt ladders where the intermittent hook moves appeared, and daisy soloed the rest of the bolt ladders. I also used a brand new 9.2mm Edelweiss 70 meter rope. I climbed nearly 70 meter pitches all the way up the route.

I got into a seriously good rhythm, felt very confident, and found myself off route. A traverse full of fixed gear out left seemed to have been wiped clean. I spent two hours pioneering a  horrifying pitch rated somewhere around C3+ to find out that I was off route, and wasted a lot of time. I somehow managed to get back to my anchor, and felt mentally fried. I drank some water, squezed a gu packet into my mouth, and turned up the volume on my ipod.

The second half of the route has a low angle characteristic with awkward free climbing. I felt very confident, and climbed up to 5.10 with my only partner being my gri gri.

I topped out the route in 19 hours and 25 minutes. I was so damn thirsty I couldn't even swallow. Good weather this early in the year dried me up, and sufficiently dehydrated me. Luckily while I was stumbling around the top of El Cap, I met a guy that had just soloed Never Never Land. He had some water to nourish my swollen throat.

My girlfriend Jess in my haul bag, not wanting me to leave Colorado. 

Climbing and bivy gear for Lurking Fear, having more value than my car.

High up on Lurking Fear

John and Oliver psyched a few pitches below me. Monkey calls kept the moral high. 

My friend Zach on an evening free solo on After 6. 

Claro De Luna

Here is a photoblog post showing illustrating my adventure to climb the route that I received a grant from the American Alpine Club to climb. After Scott and I climbed The North Pillar Sit Start, I was sufficiently in good climbing shape and completely in tune with the alpine climbing in Patagonia.  

10 days spent up at Niponino basecamp was enough time to bail off of Claro De Luna due to a route finding mistake, and then proceed to un-bail a few days later. Clayton Laramie and I climbed the 800 meters of immaculate granite on the peak Saint Exupery in t-shirts. 

I onsighted every pitch, and experienced one of the most incredible days in my life. Every detail fell perfectly into place, I was with a great partner, and I was completely in my element. 

Enjoy the photos: 

Viva Patagonia Chapter 4

Viva Patagonia Chapter 4 from Cheyne Lempe on Vimeo.


Here is a quick edit climbing in Northern Patagonia and then making my way back to the U.S.

Good things coming..

I'm back on my feet again in Colorado. I've got a lot to share with everyone, so.. hold on tight!

Viva Patagonia - To Be Continued

This is my last dispatch while traveling in Argentina. The last month I have been documenting everything and haven't been able to keep up with the editing. I have a ton of editing to do when I'm back in the states, psyched! Be sure to read the story behind the video!

The North Pillar Sit Start

A year prior to my arrival in El Chalten, Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington spotted a possible new traverse on the Fitz Roy Massif. Blake couldn’t make it down to Patagonia this year, so Scott ended up taking me on the longest route of my life. It was difficult to comprehend the possibility of climbing an enormous route that would include 500 meters of new terrain, and a net vertical gain of 2000 meters.


Scott and I began climbing The North West Ridge of Aguja Mermoz into The North Pillar of Cerro Fitz Roy. We free climbed up to 5.11, and used points of aid, pendulums, and rappels to navigate through the tricky ridges along with wet and icy cracks. 


With limited experience in the Alpine realm, I learned the true meaning of climbing ‘light and fast’. Attempts to cut weight included sharing a single sleeping bag, bivy sack, and toothbrush. Climbing in Yosemite Valley years prior opened my eyes to the possibilities of this style, and provided me with the confidence I needed to go big in Patagonia. 


Steady and efficient climbing on the gorgeous splitter pitches along with the dangerously loose ones was essential.  After 2 plush bivies, our third and final night wouldn't be as forgiving. We were allowed two freezing hours of sleep before climbing the final icy headwall. As soon as I managed to stop my body from uncontrollably shivering, I led one of the most dangerous ice pitches I had ever climbed. After a few hundred meters of wet and icy cracks, Scott and I found ourselves on the summit of Fitz Roy. We successfully completed the wild idea to climb one of the longest link-ups in El Chalten.

Viva Patagonia Chapter 3

I am stoked to be able to capture some of the vibes up on my first experience in the Patagonian mountains.  Filmed with my little Canon S95, the picture turned out pretty well!

This route is dedicated to our friend Carlyle Norman. She was in an tragic accident on St. Exupery while we were climbing. You will be deeply missed.