5.17.12

I have again been sucked into the center of the climbing Universe for my third season. I was hired into a volunteer program working for the climbing rangers Ben Doyle and Jesse McGahey. It's basically a climbing stewardship program where two friends and I will be working towards being a positive influence on the climbing community. Trail building projects to preserve climbing approaches, route condition patrols (i.e. climbing NIAD to make sure all the anchors are bomber), and other various projects will be worked on.

It seems to be one of the best situations I get to be in as a climber in Yosemite. I got to train with the Yosemite Search And Rescue crew, and I'm now a volunteer SAR climber. Last week a guy fell and dislocated his shoulder and called YOSAR. I got to be on the litter cary out crew, and even got paid! Psyched!

I'm currently staying in a tent cabin until the end of the month in the SAR site next to Camp 4. I have met incredible friends, and finally feel settled in here in the valley. The volunteer program will last until the end of August. It feels good to be a part of something cool in one of most incredible places to climb in the world.

I have felt a bit burnt out on filming and editing since I finished my new Patagonia video, but the inspiration will resurface with time.

Last Season Colin Simon and I warmed up on a route called Lurking Fear on El Capitan in 10 hours 30 minutes. There were minimal amounts of suffering to be had, and it was a good route to get ourselves into shape.

After my one day solo of The Zodiac last spring, I have been inspired by the idea of soloing big wall routes. Though I wasn't in the best shape, I decided to get in gear by soloing Lurking Fear.

Two nice 'wall style' guys from the bay area let me start up just before them on the route, and I made quick progress. I used a new technique where I back looped up the first few bolt ladders where the intermittent hook moves appeared, and daisy soloed the rest of the bolt ladders. I also used a brand new 9.2mm Edelweiss 70 meter rope. I climbed nearly 70 meter pitches all the way up the route.

I got into a seriously good rhythm, felt very confident, and found myself off route. A traverse full of fixed gear out left seemed to have been wiped clean. I spent two hours pioneering a  horrifying pitch rated somewhere around C3+ to find out that I was off route, and wasted a lot of time. I somehow managed to get back to my anchor, and felt mentally fried. I drank some water, squezed a gu packet into my mouth, and turned up the volume on my ipod.

The second half of the route has a low angle characteristic with awkward free climbing. I felt very confident, and climbed up to 5.10 with my only partner being my gri gri.

I topped out the route in 19 hours and 25 minutes. I was so damn thirsty I couldn't even swallow. Good weather this early in the year dried me up, and sufficiently dehydrated me. Luckily while I was stumbling around the top of El Cap, I met a guy that had just soloed Never Never Land. He had some water to nourish my swollen throat.

My girlfriend Jess in my haul bag, not wanting me to leave Colorado. 

Climbing and bivy gear for Lurking Fear, having more value than my car.

High up on Lurking Fear

John and Oliver psyched a few pitches below me. Monkey calls kept the moral high. 

My friend Zach on an evening free solo on After 6. 

Claro De Luna

Here is a photoblog post showing illustrating my adventure to climb the route that I received a grant from the American Alpine Club to climb. After Scott and I climbed The North Pillar Sit Start, I was sufficiently in good climbing shape and completely in tune with the alpine climbing in Patagonia.  

10 days spent up at Niponino basecamp was enough time to bail off of Claro De Luna due to a route finding mistake, and then proceed to un-bail a few days later. Clayton Laramie and I climbed the 800 meters of immaculate granite on the peak Saint Exupery in t-shirts. 

I onsighted every pitch, and experienced one of the most incredible days in my life. Every detail fell perfectly into place, I was with a great partner, and I was completely in my element. 

Enjoy the photos: 

Viva Patagonia Chapter 4

Viva Patagonia Chapter 4 from Cheyne Lempe on Vimeo.


Here is a quick edit climbing in Northern Patagonia and then making my way back to the U.S.

Good things coming..

I'm back on my feet again in Colorado. I've got a lot to share with everyone, so.. hold on tight!

Viva Patagonia - To Be Continued

This is my last dispatch while traveling in Argentina. The last month I have been documenting everything and haven't been able to keep up with the editing. I have a ton of editing to do when I'm back in the states, psyched! Be sure to read the story behind the video!

The North Pillar Sit Start

A year prior to my arrival in El Chalten, Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington spotted a possible new traverse on the Fitz Roy Massif. Blake couldn’t make it down to Patagonia this year, so Scott ended up taking me on the longest route of my life. It was difficult to comprehend the possibility of climbing an enormous route that would include 500 meters of new terrain, and a net vertical gain of 2000 meters.


Scott and I began climbing The North West Ridge of Aguja Mermoz into The North Pillar of Cerro Fitz Roy. We free climbed up to 5.11, and used points of aid, pendulums, and rappels to navigate through the tricky ridges along with wet and icy cracks. 


With limited experience in the Alpine realm, I learned the true meaning of climbing ‘light and fast’. Attempts to cut weight included sharing a single sleeping bag, bivy sack, and toothbrush. Climbing in Yosemite Valley years prior opened my eyes to the possibilities of this style, and provided me with the confidence I needed to go big in Patagonia. 


Steady and efficient climbing on the gorgeous splitter pitches along with the dangerously loose ones was essential.  After 2 plush bivies, our third and final night wouldn't be as forgiving. We were allowed two freezing hours of sleep before climbing the final icy headwall. As soon as I managed to stop my body from uncontrollably shivering, I led one of the most dangerous ice pitches I had ever climbed. After a few hundred meters of wet and icy cracks, Scott and I found ourselves on the summit of Fitz Roy. We successfully completed the wild idea to climb one of the longest link-ups in El Chalten.

Viva Patagonia Chapter 3

I am stoked to be able to capture some of the vibes up on my first experience in the Patagonian mountains.  Filmed with my little Canon S95, the picture turned out pretty well!

This route is dedicated to our friend Carlyle Norman. She was in an tragic accident on St. Exupery while we were climbing. You will be deeply missed.

Update

Sorry for the lack of communication! After a solid 10 days of splitter weather, a solid week of bad weather is forcing everyone into isolation. Scott and I made a first ascent on Aguja Giullamet. Soon after, we spent 4 days climbing The North West Ridge of Aguja Mermoz into Cerro Fitz Roy. It is possibly one of the longest rock climbs in Patagonia, and definitely the longest in our climbing careers. Look forward to real posts and more details!

Viva Patagonia Chapter 2

Not knowing Spanish, continuously converting Argentinian pesos to American dollars, and meeting people from all around theworld has been making this an incredible experience. If I can figure out how to chill out and not be so intimidated by these mountains I'll be set!

Scott Bennett and I just had a great few days up in the mountains where we an unclimbed route on Guillamet. We left our base camp and ran back to town to stock up on food and psyche. Chapter 3 will include more 'real' climbing I promise!

More later....

Viva Patagonia Chapter 1

I won't have internet for a while before I get to El Chalten in Patagonia. I am currently sitting in terminal D14 in Miami long enough to upload this video. About to catch the flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Peace!

12.25.11

Too much climbing, not enough writing! Finally, I'm able to chill out for a minute and give you all an update. 

I have less than two weeks left in the United States of America! Stress continually began to build pressure against my withering bank account. I wasn't even sure how the hell I was going to pay to go down to Patagonia. A week ago I got a call notifying me that I received the Mountain Fellowship Grant from The American Alpine Club. I hung up the phone and immediately began packing to spend the next 5 days ice climbing in Ouray, CO. 

With additional help from Liberty Mountain, Clif Bar, and other extremely generous prodeals, I'm nearly entirely equipped for my journey down south. 

My head is cluttered with hundreds of questions about logistics. I'm extremely nervous, but I know I need to let things flow. It's hard to let my insecurities drain out.. I'm working on it. 

Looking up at the glorious Diamond

Kurt Ross and I had an unsuccessful ascent on Alexander's Chimney last month due to the lack of ice on the last pitch. Scott Bennett, one of my climbing partners for Patagonia, was eager to get out and climb some ice with me.
"It's been a month since I was on Alexander's Chimney, there definitely has to be more ice on it now," I said. I have the knowledge easily comparable 10 year old gym climber when it comes to ice and how it forms. It turns out that ice can essentially disappear due to sublimation and wind. At least half the ice on my previous attempt had 'dissappeared'.
A poorly protected 60 meter traverse brought us to Broadway, where we then climbed Keiner's Route to summit Longs Peak. I was damn tired up at 14,000 feet.

Here is an assortment of photos on Long's Peak, Boulder Canyon, Ouray, and Castlewood Canyon.

Cumbre!

Becca Skinner photo

Becca Skinner Photo

Some new footage is in the making. I'll have a video uploaded before my departure on January 4th. I plan to bring all of my camera and computer gear with me so I'll be able to upload videos while I'm on my trip. My goal is to put out one video every week or so.